La Montée est Finie: Langtang Trekking Full of Adventure and Excitement By: Bishnu Prasad Sharma

Raining and snowing started together while trekking to Tharepani from Phedi. On the 10th day of our trekking, we had started from Gosaikunda at 7:00 am for Tharepati crossing Lauribina Pass 4610m. It was the most tiresome, awful, difficult and memorable day of the Langtang-Gosaikunda trekking to all of us, whereas the most exciting, glorious and magnificent was The Cherkori Peak 5000m at Kyanzin, Langtang. 

Gagesh Himal I,II,III from Lauribina Pass

Louis was feeling bit tired after Ghopte 3430m, as we had crossed Lauribina Pass 4610m from Gosaikunda lake 4380m, the same day having high altitude climbing and getting down through a steep rolling stone along with snow and slippery trail. We had to ascend up to Tharipani 3700m all the way. All of them were aware of Nepali trekking trail, as one had to get down to the bottom of the river, then ascend up the same distance to get a tea house which exactly doesn't resemble with map explanation.

At morning, till Lauribina Pass the weather was clear and bright allowing us to have the panoramic view of  Langtang at right corner then coming to Ganesh Himal-I, II and III, Manasalu and Annapurna II to the far left. Previous night's snow was not melting, so, the lakes and sky were becoming dark blue in white background. It was so rarely available view from the Lauribian pass-the white ground, dark and blue lakes, black rocks and the snow capped high mountains that no one were willing to get down the steep and boring trail. Pascal and myself were behind making some photograph. I need to wait for his printed photos.

Surya Kunda, at Lauribina Pass

We have to cross several unnoticeable and boring passes after Phedi via Ghopte before arriving at Tharepati. The trails with big boulders, rolling stones, rocks and steep is more dreadful at the time when there is snowfall, rain, hunger and tiredness as we had. 
At the bottom of the second last pass to Tharepati, Louis, 64, tired, wet by snow and rain, hungry and thirsty looked at me and asked politely - "How long will it take to be in the lodge. Is La Montée est Finie?  ( Is ascending finished) Throwing the snow piled on the top of his backpack, I told him, "It will take about one and half hour and there is little  La Montée to complete." To make his steps fresh from tiredness, I had told him that it will take only half an hour and the La Montée was nearly finished, though we had to walk more.

Gabi & Mano at Lauribina Pass 

We all were tired and wet. Pascal, Marius and Dominique and I were walking together following the steps of Louis. There was non-stop rain and snow. As we were walking, we had not felt cold. Claudine, Mano, Muriel and Gabi were in front of us and Hem had already been to Tharepati to make rooms sure.
Soon after the major small passes finished and our lodge was seen in dim light, without caring of a gentle climb, I told them in French language "La Montée Finie" the climbing now is finished. Louis really became very happy. New blood circulated on him. He was excited. His steps became faster than before. It was cloudy, raining and snowing. 

Tharepati

Tharepati was looking dim-white as darkness was approaching. Pascal, Marius and Dominique had noticed that there was still little La Montée to cross ahead and I as usual was telling a lie.  But, finally in twenty minutes, the Montée was really finished and we all were at Gosaikunda Lodge in Tharepati. Though getting dark, Tharepati was looking like a beautiful girl with white shawl on her brown shoulder.

It was not an easy day to most of my brave friends who had crossed their 60 springs. Whether it may be Montée or descend, they were strong enough and had crossed all other trekkers passing as by Yak herders. After 10 hours of arduous climbing and descending in a high altitude, rough road, snow and rain, we all safely were at the lodge. 

Discussion on first trekking day 

Though, terribly hard day due to snow and rain, we had gained precious experience of both good and terrible weather. 'Ttiredness' had been vanished away with a bowl of soup, macaroni,  momo and fried potato cooked by beautiful Sherpani providing us the most exciting experience of the trekking at Tharepati. 

Bee Hive at cliff

Langtang is one of the famous valleys having several snow capped mountains, Tamang and Sherpa people, rivers, forests, paradise of summer flowers, waterfalls diving from tall cliffs, flora and fauna preserved under the Langtang National Park (http://www.visitnepal.com/nepal_information/nepalparks.php#LangtangNational Park). With eight French members, our 13-day long trekking was started from Kathmandu on 5th November, though Mandala Painting of Claudine was incomplete at Bouddhaath. It took us nearly 9 hours by Bus to reach Shyafrubensi crossing Dhunch administrative headquarter of Rasuwa district. Though, just north from Nepal's capital city Kathmandu, it is one of the remotest districts of Nepal. Due to jagged, toothed and narrow road at some points, I strongly recommend to hire a Land Rover for a safer and comfortable journey to Shyafrubensi. Anyway, we had enjoyed the Trisuli River, rice field and the people working in the field, though in some places we had to push the Tata bus.

Am I beautiful ?

A trail leads to Kerung, Tibet, the traditional route to Nepal and Tibet along the Bhote Koshi river. We had to cross the Bhotekoshi river through a suspension bridge following Langtang river, the other side of the valley, after showing trekking permit to the police sitting at the corner of the road. After breakfast at Shyafrubensi, we started our trekking. There is a small village just after the bridge where one can see the prayer's flag and a beautiful point where Bhotekoshi and Langtang river shakes their hands and flow together. 

Crossing Ghopcha Khola first day

Crossing another narrow and short suspension bridge over Langtang river nearby, we had to follow Langtang river-towards our trekking destination. We're 14 in number including 8 French members, 4 local porters, 1 Sherpa and myself. The long caravan of the trekkers along the Langtang river was looking amazingly attractive.

Usually, weather from November to Feburary is very clear and warm during day, and chilly in morning and night at above 3000 m. It is freezing cold above 3500m at night, especially from 15 December to middle of February in Nepal. Cludine and I had decided to do this trek from 5-17 Novemebr, ultimately to avoid bad weather. This year too as in previous year, there was good weather only for one week in October. 
The weather was becoming cloudy from the beginning of November. I was not sleepless, as we were not using any flights. Usually, if it is Everest Trekking, we do not sleep dreaming about the weather for the flight to Lukla the following morning. My conviction or let's say expectation was that there will be rain and the weather after rain will be clear. Mostly, we have such experience in winter. 

Before starting trek, I'd requested to all my friends not to be too far from each other while walking along the trail and not to feel walking competition, in contrary, they needed to enjoy the mines of beauty of the Langtang valley. My friend Hem Khatiwada, editor of Rasuwa Khabar, weekly had been given the job of trekking Sherpa, so, he was in front of the members and I myself was behind. We, people from developing countries do not know the real taste and value of nature as the European, American, Japanese and the people from highly developed countries do. 

What plant is this?

From the beginning, I was deeply impressed from the friendliness, openness, and gentleness of my French friends. They were discussing about the plants, vegetation, people and so on. I was feeling proud when they were enjoying looking at the plants, vegetation, waterfalls, landscape, Langtang River, bee hive on the tall cliff etc. In Nepal, honey –hunting is very famous and adventurous work. Every year, few people die during honey hunting. They hunt hanging in an open space on a hand –made- grass-rope.

Kyanzin Glacier

Though, the weather was not favouring us, but we were laughing and enjoying. We had tea break at Pairo about two and half hour from Shyafrubensi. At around 11:30, we were at Bamboo Lodge for lunch (name of the place), where there are four lodges. During lunch, rain drop started. Everybody had put on their rain coat and plastic before we headed to Rimche.

In hours of continuous ascend along the Langtang river and forest, we were at Lama Hotel. From here, the area becomes wide. There are about ten lodges at Lama Hotel. As, it is the main destination of trekkers from Shyafrubensi and Langtang returners, usually the lodges are full of tourists. Together, we had little confusion about our first day stop at Bamboo, as I'd forgotten to mention them about the changes we had made in our previous program during briefing. In previous program, we had to be at Ghora Tabela. When, I explained them that the weather was not good and it would be long for the first day, then everybody had agreed upon the changes made.

Due to bad weather many Lukla flights were cancelled. So, Everest trekkers were rushing to Langtang and Gosaikunda area. Due to this, we had to be more cautious about rooms in the lodges for our big group in whole trek. Otherwise, it is known for less crowded area.

Langtang before Ghore Tabela

Everybody sitting in front of fire cheered up with happiness when I informed them about the stars shining in the sky. Our friends were looking young and their faces bright with happiness in the morning, the third day, on 7 November. I was more confident for a good weather after rain. The rain may have for two or three days in winter, then it will stop. The changed weather had made me happy from inside. To make them feel happy was my mission. It took nearly two hours to be at Ghora Tabela. Before, we had a chance to see the peak of Langtang and Langtang Lirung at the bank of gurgling Langtang khola. The long and wide Langtang valley, Kyanzin, Cherkori peak, Dorjee Lhakpa, Langshisha ri, were welcoming us. Everybody was smiling and busy taking pictures with hot lemon at Ghora Tabela.

It was the first time in the fifth day that my friends were experiencing sun-warm since they landed in Nepal on 3rd Nov. '011. We had lunch at Thanshyap 3120m having the full sleeping view of Langtang Lirung. This is my favourite place in Langtang region. 

Sherpa Women at Langtang vill

Talking with the village people, distributing pens and pencils to school children, tasting fresh Yak curd, capturing photos of the mountains, forest, long suspension bridge, Mani walls, Chortens, stone-script, stone inscription with images of Buddha, Padmasambhava, Milarepa, Chakra, Mandala  prayer flags, water run Mani wheels, we reached at Langtang village. Claudine, Gabi, Muriel and Mano had also managed to have little shopping on the way in a small shop owned by local Tamang and Sherpa women who were looked like Tibetan in face and their costume.

Cludine & Dominique: Pen for school

Most of the villagers send their children to Dhunche and Kathmandu for education though there is a primary government school. Local inhabitants work in the field and grow potatoes, wheat and barley. They produce milk from Chauri mountain cow, and Yak is famous animal of the region. There are two cheese factory in Langtang and Kyanzin village. In summer, they take their Yak and Chauri to Langshisha Kharka up to 4800m altitude.

Langtang is the biggest village of the region. In local language 'lang' means Yak and 'tang' means disappear. It is believed that in ancient time a yak while grazing in the Langshisha Kharka (grazing land) had been lost, and never came back since then, it is said that it is called 'Langtang'. The valley is the paradise of flowers during summer. 
Weather was with us. The following day became competitively better. All friends were very happy and becoming stronger. Muriel had cold from the beginning but she was always on her spirit. Louis and Dominique were in front. Claudine was busy to give pen and pencils to the children and taking pictures. Pascal was changing films in his non-digital camera and Marius had no leisure from filming. Gabi was observing the area; Mano was not behind to capture photos by her professional camera. 

 Monastry and Langtang at Kyanzin

Just before Kyanzin village and Kyanzin monastery, Kyanzin Glacier, Kyanzin mountain and Langtang welcomed us on our fourth trekking day from Kathmandu. In two and half hours, we were at Kyanzin Gomba from Langtang.  We took the room at Mountain View lodge, to save time; we asked to prepare lunch and went to visit the Kyanzin Monastry.


 Very close to the monastery, there is a Swiss government supported old cheese factory. Testing the mountain cheese, we had a close view of the old monastery. While looking the 600 years old Kyanzin monastery, one can easily assume that much attention for its preservation is not given by the authority. The old and valuable books and images were stolen many years ago from the monastery. 

Langtang Mt. & River

The attractive old wall paintings still lure the tourists. This is the last destination of Langtang trekking. Many trekkers staying here for few days, explore the regions such as Langshisha valley, Yala peak, Cherkori peak, crossing Gangja la pass to Helambu and many more.
According to our pre-plan, we started towards Langshisha Kharka-the most beautiful, long and deep valley of Langtang region having in front view of Langshisha Ri-6310, Dorjee Lhakpa 6966, Gang Chenpo 6388m, Naya Kang, Gangala pass, Langtang river and the gigantic Langtang II and Kyanzin watching just behind us. Until the altitude of 4800m, there is a grazing land where one can see Yak grazing and milking the Chauri during summer. We crossed the old abandoned airport built in 1950 together with the cheese factory in 1955 with the financial support provided by Swiss government. Strong wind from Langtang valley and Langshihsa Ri recommended us to go back. On the way, we climbed nearly 300 meter from the Langshisha valley up to 4100m leading the trail to Cherkori.

Sunrise at Langtang

It developed the confident for us to climb Cherkori the following day. Everybody was exciting to kiss the flattering prayer's flag on the top of Cherkori along with several mountains extending far until to Tibet.

Moon rise & Sunset at Cherkori

In previous night together with dinner, evaluating our team's strength and spirit, we had decided to climb Cherkori Peak 5000m ( 5000m in altimeter, 4984 in the map) higher and difficult than Kyanzin Ri 4773m.

Dorjee Lhakpa and  Gang Chenpo

On 9 November, the 5th trekking day, taking breakfast at 5:30 am, we had started our peak climbing trek at 6:00 am from Kyanzin 3730m. to Cherkori peak. Kyanzin ri, Cherkori, Yala peak and Langshisha are the famous destinations from Kyanzin village. Yala peak 5500m needs two extra days and climbing gear.


We started climbing up gently. All were on their own pace. The sun was shining and the Cherkori peak was peering us from top on our every step and breathes we took. Not in altitude, but in climbing trail and size, Cherkori is more steep and gigantic than Kalapather 5550m in Everest. We had to climb from north ridge at the beginning having the view of gigantic Langtang II, Langtang Lirung, Lirung Glacier, Kyanzin Glacier and the deep steep white-gravel slope just left side of the trail.

Langtang & Kyanzin from Cherkori

In some places, due to landslide, there was a very narrow trail rarely enough for our footstep. A little mistake may throw us to the unending dive of the gravel slope heading to Kyanzin valley. 


We gradually followed the left corner before coming up to another ridge that was leading to the top of Cherkori. 


The last ridge stretching from north to south was more steep and difficult part of the climbing. It was also difficult to find the foot prints over the stones in some places that easily lead to wrong direction. However, it did not happen, as there was good weather allowing us to view the top. During snowfall and thick fog, we should be very careful in the mountains. A small negligence easily takes our life.

Picnic at Cherkori

Down to Kyanzin from Cherkori

My problem during high altitude is that it takes long time to start, if I make a stop over. So, slowly, I need to continue. Pascal 65 and Marius 55 our two strong friends were guiding and looking other friends who were climbing up at their own pace. Before me was Mano-who of course looks like sportswomen. She reached on the top in 2:55 hours, me following her in 3:00 hours from Kyanzin. Within few minutes, we all were on the top of Cherkori Peak 5000m.

The sun was shining. The prayer flags were flattering on the top of Cherkori. There was big valley and white mountains all around us. We had grasped each other and shared happiness. Except a narrow valley of Langtang river at the bottom to the west, in all other direction, we had the view of several beautiful Himalayan peaks. We had 360 degree view of the snow capped mountains extended until Shishapangma to the north in Tibet. 

Far Left Shishapangma, Langshisha ri, Yala Peak and DL

What we had seen at top starting from left to right were Langtang Lirung, Langtang II, Langtang range, Lirung Glacier, Kyanzin Glaier, Kyanzin, Yala Peak, Shishapangma, Penthang ri,  Langshisha ri and Dorjee Lhakpa. And, from east to south corner were Gang  Chenpo the beautiful sitting mountain, Nayakang and Ganjala. The grazing valley at this altitude is extending until to Yala Peak and goes below to Langshisha Kharka. The Mountain View we saw from Cherkori is similar in wideness and panorama that we see from Kalapather, Everest. The beautiful view of Everest we see is from Kapapather 5550. This valley looks more wide and flat than in Everest from Kalapather. We all were so proud that we had the opportunity to have such magnificent view. Thanks to the weather.

Dorjee Lhakpa DL

Cludine in memory of her relative had put a prayer flag on the top along with her beautiful red scarf that she was wearing during cold evenings of the treks.  For a moment, we're with her wishing peace to the departed soul.

After having full satisfaction of the Mountain View, we had enjoyed Tibetan bread, Cheese from Kyanzin, boiled egg and hot lemon as our packed memorable and historical Cherkori picnic. The wind started to be stronger. All trekkers of other group had already left the top. Mountain crows started to come to taste the dropped over Tibetan bread. 
When we were about to start our journey back, looking at the happy mountain crow, Pascal said, "If I reborn, I want to be a mountain crow and fly over the white mountains". We internalize his feeling and started journey back to Kyanzin. We took another trail from east south ridge to get back. It was rather easier than the first ones-we took at the morning.

Pascal & Bishnu Cherkori

Due to moon light night, the stopover at Kyanzin had become more interesting. To have the night view of mountains during moonlight was new experience to some of us. Recollecting the days' strenuous climbing and the magnificent view of long mountain range and glaciers, everybody was waiting to fly over the white peaks lying inside the sleeping bag in frosty, the last night at Kyanzin. 

As in other days, we started at 7:00 in the morning from Kyanzin for Lama Hotel on the 6th day of our trekking. We were compelled to take the same lodge due to unfair local business competition. As usual, Claudine, our trekking commander and food President had prepared the list of dinner items and following day's breakfast asking each individual what they like to eat from the meal items given in lodge-Menu. This was somehow a small task to be taken during the trekking. Sometime, we had taken Dal Bhat to economize our time, than taking Momo, Spring Roll etc. 

On the 7th day, we're at Thulo Shyafru a big Tamang village situated on the bottom ridge of Lauribina range. We could notice that the weather was changing where mountains and hills were wearing Saris of black clouds. I was praying for good weather for one day and that was for Gosaikunda to Tharepati. It would be too difficult to cross the pass and getting down if there will be too much snow. In much snow, it is difficult to find the right trail that might lead to unending path. With the celebration of Marius's birthday, we had ended the day.

Stupa at Thulo Shyafru

It was all the way climbing from Thulo Shyafru to Lauribina having a very beautiful tall pine and rhododendron forest. We had seen monkeys. We have to come back to see Red Panda, Leopard and Musk deer. 

Big Meal

After visiting the cheese factory, Monastry and taking lunch at Sin Gompa, we had been at Mountain View lodge, at Lauribina at around 3:30 pm, the weather was gloomy.  Due to bad weather, my friends became unable to see long mountain range that is extending from Langtang and Dorjee Lhakpa in the east corner Ganesh, Manasalu and  Annapurna-II in the west.


The morning of our 9th day was different. Together with us, there were around 60 tourists taking their pace at lauribina Montee at an altitude of around 4100m heading to Gosaikunda.

House at Thulo Shyafru

The Lauribina montee is popular because during the full moon of August, many pilgrims visit Gosaidunda for holy bath. And, many of them become sick and forced to stop their journey. Cloud was playing hide and seek game with the mountains allowing us to have rare view of Ganesh Himal. 


At around two and half hour, we arrived at Gosaikunda the holy lake having first view of Sawaswoti and Bhairab Kunda. Louis was feeling little bit tired as he was also not taking enough food, though he was not feeling any altitude sickness, so I was not worrying about. After lunch, for acclimatization, we had climbed up to Surya Kunda and had circled around the Gosaikunda lake with pleasure.

Gosaikunda Lake

It is believed that Lord Shiva being his throat burn after drinking poison reached in this area, he forcefully threw his trident from where cold water soared-up, then he drank the water and cooled down the burning throat. In the same place, at an altitude of 4380m from the sea level, a lake was formed and it was named Gosaikunda (Gosai means Shiva and kunda means pond) a holi lake where every year thousands of both Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims visit and take bath to wash sins committed knowingly or unknowingly at the time of their life period. 

Still village people believe, if somebody dies in this region, they directly reach to heaven. Same belief is taken in Mt. Kailash circle and Mansarobar lake. The same water coming down from the Gosaikunda is known as Trishuli river. In this area, it is said that there are 108 lakes including small and big. Normally, we can see seven lakes including Saraswati, Bhairab, Gosaikunda, Surya Kunda and other three small ones. Except Surya kunda all other lakes flow and join to Gosaikunda.

Dorma La Pass at Mt. Kailash 2009

The other think, I remember while looking the rocks, structure, cliff, stones in and around Gosaikunda, I found some similarities as in Mt. Kailash. The area of Mt. Kailash is huge, wide and and long. Similarly, bigger is the Manasarobar lake where the whole sky can rest.  

Manasarobar Lake in Tibet, 

The nature of the rocks in Gosaikunda and Mt. Kailash looks similar. And, another interesting part is that there are several lakes nearby Mt. Kailash region including Manasarobar as in Gosaikunda area. Due to these similarities, I assume that Gosaikunda might be the sister of Manasarobara.
I have two reasons; they are religious and geographic. According to Hindu religion, Mt. Kailash is Lord Shiva himself. Shiva with his partner Parbati being white duck swim in Manasarobar.

Mt. Kailash, Tibet AR of China

In connection to Nepal, Shiva created Gosaikunda to cool down his poison-burn throat. And in terms of structure and vegetation- the rocks, rolling stones and boulders seem similar. Because of the altitude and vegetation similarities, I feel that Gosaikunda is the sister of Manasarobar in Tibet. ( I have included three photos of Dormala Pass 5670 m, Mt. Kailash and Manasarobar to for information)


The night was cold at Gosaikunda. After breakfast, at 7:00 am, the 10th day of our trek, we started our arduous day for Tharepati vai Lauribina pass and Ghopte. At starting, the weather was magnificent. The valley was looking white and lakes dark blue. I have explained in detail the experience of this day in the beginning. Whether we climb from Tharepati to Gosaikunda or from Gosaikunda to Tharepati-it is the difficult part of the Langtang trekking.

Trees before Sin Gomba from Thulo Shyafru

As, I mentioned in the beginning chapter, the trekking from Gosaikunda to Tharepati became very tiresome and boring as it started raining and snowing after lunch in Phedi. We all were fully wet due to rain and snow when we had been at Tharepati after 10 hours of tiresome walking. Before us, there were other 6 members staying in the lodge. We tried to dry our most wet clothes hanging over a small rope tied over the oven. We had felt relaxed. Though very tired, all my friends were very very happy as we had completed the most difficult la Montée and the most important part of the trekking.

One of my friends and former diplomatic mission senior officer Mark Larsen shared about trekking- "It was wonderful to hear from you and to hear that your latest trek went well.  I remember Laurabina pass well and fondly, though I got dangerously cold trying to linger up there in a windy snowstorm last time I crossed it. In fact that trip turned out to be a rough one.  It rained so heavily on my way down that I trotted downhill all the way from Gosainkund lake to Dunche in a single day. Of course the sun came out as I walked into Dunche. And my thighs ached from the long, long downhill. Your trip sounds wonderful and I can't wait to see the pictures.  I have always crossed Lauraibina from the Helambu side and can't imagine slogging up to Gosainkund from the west. So steep and unrelenting."

I fully agree with my friend, it was my third time coming down from Lauribina pass to Tharepati and all the time having very boring weather. This time, at least we had marvellous weather at the morning.

Wall Painting at Sin Gomba

Though there were three days left to complete our trekking, I had a feeling that it was already finished. The next morning on the 11th day of our trekking, Tharepati covered under white snow was looking more young and beautiful. Fingering out the Lauribina pass far up to the mountain under snow and bulk of clouds from where we had descended previous day, we started our trek to Kutumsang. It was one of the easiest day-all the way getting down. We had forgotten about the weather as it was not improving, and most importantly, we had already seen the mountains which we would have seen in good weather. 

Oh la la Montée ! Muriel  heading to Gosaikunda 

The 12th day planned for Chisapani from Kutumsang was bit longer, up and down than previous day. For about two hours from Kutumsang to Chipling, the motorable road had made the trail boring. It made us little happy where we (few of us) had seen a couple of musk deer grazing just above the road. At around five in afternoon, we had been to Chisapani. It was windy and cold. We had enjoyed the last night eating and drinking together with porters.

On the 13th day of our trekking, 17 November 2011, we were at Sundarijal at round 11 am.  The preserved forest of Shivapuri National park had succeeded to impress our friends. Gabi and others were excited when they saw different types of orchids in the forest. So our Langtang trekking had been completed at Sundarijal gaining lot of high mountain experiences.

Cludine, Muriel & Bishnu

I have got an opportunity to make trekking with many foreign friends and have done some famous trekking such as Everest BC, Kalapather, Gokyo and Chola-pass in Everest region, Thorong La (Around Annapurna), Beni-Muktinath, Annapurna BC, and Around Dhaulagiri in Annapurna area in Nepal and Mt. Kailash circuit and Manasarobar in Tibet. I have gained lot new experiences from this trek. We had become from friends to family members.

Langtang, though old in trekking route first investigated by H.W. Tilman in 1949 is not developed properly. Still, there is unfair competition among the lodge owners and shop keepers.

Cludine- Am I lost in Langshisha Kharka ?

Namaste ! Can you hear me ?

I feel shy to write down here the story of two tea shop owner women who had fought and get blooded on their faces in the matters related to sell few cups of tea to the trekkers.The basic thing such as toilet, ropes to hang wet clothes and sanitation has to be improved in the local lodges. My suggestion is that a visit managed by Langtang National Park to local hotelier in Annapurna area might be a good lesson for lodge owners. Most importantly, they have to stop unfair competition. 


Finally, this trek became so influential that it touched my heart. We all became too close and at the end it became a very good family.

The farsighted leadership of my old friend Claudine, Gabi's close monitoring, Pascal's guardianship, Louis's respectfulness, Mano's boldness, Marius's support and openness, Dominique's curiosity to lean and Muriel's sincerity had made the trip a grand success, memorable and marvelous.  My friend's hand written evaluation is posted here as images. 



Our old relationship with Claudine and other members has become deeper. Invaluable culture that I learned from the French people will be my great property. I wait for another harder la Montée  to cross together. I'm now so proud that I have so many beautiful and lovely friends in France. On the last day at airport, Muriel told me- " Do not say good bye, say, see you again". I repeat her  –'Atu te lah', a bientot !'.