Shyangboche-Everest Trek: Short But Exciting

Shyangboche –Everest Trek: Short but Exciting

                                                           by:Bishnu Prasad Sharma

We had forgotten seven-hour long tiresome waiting at Kathmandu's domestic airport to fly to Lukla, when we had very pleasant weather at Namche allowing us to have the view of Kongde, Kusumkangru and Thamserku. I had noticed a charming smile in the face of my friend Igor and his 12 years old daughter Ekaterina, being busy to capture the magnificent, panoramic view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Amadablam and the mountains seen from Namche from Shyangboche in third day morning of our trekking. They looked magnificent because of the fresh snow and bright morning sun.

"Is that Everest? Come, I'll make photos of you in front of Everest", Igor asked his daughter to stand before at Shyangboche and captured many photos by pretty good new professional camera. I was enjoying upon their happiness which was one of my goals of the trip. I'd been to Everest Base Camp and Kalapathar and other parts of Khumbu region for several times since April 1994. For me, interesting was to take change to capture a photo of Khumbila- a holy mountain of Khumbu region covering with little snow.                                            

Igor is my friend from Russia. We know each other since one decade. We together have done memorable trips including Lhasa-Manasarobar and Mt. Kailash circuit, Annapuran B.C. and many more. This time, he handed over a responsibility to make a trip to Shyangboche with one night stop over at Everest View Hotel- the best and the hotel situated at the highest elevation from the sea level in the world at 3800m with his 12 years old daughter.

                                    
Bishnu and Kongde                                                          

It was a bit challenge for me, but I had convinced him with my little high altitude trekking experience that there will be no problem at all, and in case anything happened, I had confidence to  handle them properly. Because it was below 4000m. Though, it was an altitude challenge to her as she had come from St. Petergsburg. I was committed and prepared to make this short five day trip (27 -31 March 2011) a grand success.     

Terribly long waiting at Kathmandu domestic airport for Lukla flight due to cloudy weather had made them tired and me nervous. At around 1330 hrs. on 27 March 2011 when all passengers were boarded in Tara Air and tightened seat belts,  their face was like a rose flower melting the day long hunger. But suddenly, our face including mine dried immediately when our flight turned back to Kathmandu within 15 minute due to thick cloud and rain. We're waiting for the last call that could be cancellation or also a last attempt to Lukla. The last chance, we had taken was at 1430 hrs. at the same day and finally we were at Lukla, I could realize a smile on my face, though the flight had crossed several bunch of thick cloud. All passengers in the plane were silent perhaps praying for Everest the last desire. Lukla is the gate way for Everest trekking.  

Igor and Laxman a friend of mine doing both porter and guide's role were ahead of us at our first days' trek to Phakding. I felt uncomfortable, when she walked down on stone stair giving all weight to legs and unbalancing the body weight. Immediately, I moved ahead of her and asked to step-down slowly in the stone stair with full control over body weight, so that one could be safe from straightly falling down. She followed my suggestions in no-time and started to walk slowly. I became happy and my worry about it was over. I had never been in a trek with my kids at her age, but when we were together, they were already strong enough to trek. We're on time in Beer Garden Lodge at Phakding where my friends already had a cup of black tea.

Second day, planned for Namche was totally non-stop rainy day making us difficult to trek. I was suspecting that she might have little head ache during climbing up before Namche (3440m) as it will be over 3000m. But, before this, after lunch at around 2800m, she had severe headache. I asked her to drink water and walk very slowly taking long breadth in every two –three steps. She did exactly what I asked and it helped her.

                                                                                      

"Bishnu, I've headache, some strange sound in my ear, my head is moving round and feeling tired", Ekaterina told me about one hour after lunch. At the moment, I got little nervous, though I had pre-expectation of that situation. We took several short stops. I took her in a tea house, provided a cup of black tea, and after ten minute rest, she felt better and we started, but slowly. Drink and slow walking is the best way to avoid altitude sickness at the beginning unless it becomes further difficult.  

There was similar headache at the climbing before Namche, but I was not scared. Slowly but at the good spirit we had been at Namche together with little snow fall and cold wind. I could not stop crying, when she saw her father at the lodge and said 'pappa' in a childish and innocent voice. With full of tears and becoming proud, Igor congratulated on her strength and spirit. When all had tears of happiness, the snow was also falling, most probably congratulating her. This was over. Another big concern for me left was weather. Will the father and little daughter be able to see the mountains tomorrow? Despite unsure, I was telling them that the next morning will be bright, because it is not a rainy season.

Exactly that happened. The following morning was with sunshine and they were able to see all the mountains from Shyangboche.  It was their good luck. At the days, when we reached at Shyangboche, the Everest View Hotel was empty which was fully booked one year before, when I had tried to book for them. The reason behind was that the Korean group, who had booked the room were unable to come due to flight cancellation of the previous days' continuous rain and snow.

So, in a short period of time, just in five days' the little beautiful girl had so good experience such as long awaiting in domestic airport without breakfast and lunch, the adventurous flight to Lukla, trekking in a rainy day, little high altitude sickness, rain and snow and finally friendly blue sky and the panoramic view of mighty Himalayas including the Everest. photo Everest (l)Amadablam (r)

In the high altitude trekking, you have to depend upon your own strength. It is fatal to be fast to get to your friend who might be better in walking than you. Do not worry for him; he/she will be waiting you at the lodge with a cup of black or Nepali Masala tea with milk and sugar. Be slow and safe,  beautiful and luring Himalayas are always in front of you.

   For comment please write: bishnu@nmdc.org.np or sharmap_bishnu@yahoo.com